Page 2
Mike Brooks Custom Muzzleloaders.
The next step is to fit the barrel under lugs. You can dovetail one into the very end of the octagon portion of the barrel than solder the other three on. I put the last on 4" back from the muzzle then split the difference left for the other two. I file my lugs mounting surfaces down thin before I solder them down. Then after they are soldered I remove any excess lug with a file so I don't need to remove any more wood than I have to to accommodate them in the barrel channel.
After your lugs are soldered on and cleaned up, blacken the tops of them then squeeze the barrel back into the barrel channel so the lugs will leave a mark as to their future postion. Slot these areas out and cut a little out for what is left of the lug base too. Before you drill your barrel pin holes though you might as well get rid of the extra wood on the fore stock. With an 1/8" drill bit as a guide, draw an 1/8" wide line on both sides of the barrel on the lower fore stock.
Do the same thing on both sides of the barrel on the upper fore stock using a 1/16 drill bit as a guide. Once done, band saw the excess wood off both sides.
Once you have the barrel set down again where it should be, measure where your pins need to be drilled through so they hit the lugs. I make a mark on the side of the barrel to measure from, there are many different ways to do this however.
Heres a view of everything measured out and clamped in, ready to be drilled. I use 1/16" pin stock for pins. Drill your holes and make and install your pins.