Mike Brooks Custom Muzzleloaders
Page 11
Now we're going to round up the fore stock. This isn't at all hard to do, and this is how I do it. The top line is what will be the top of the fore stock. The barrel at this point is inlet to deep in the channel and the sides of the barrel channel need to be reduced. I expose between 1/2 and 2/3rds of the side barrel flat above the wood line. This gives the gun a nice slim feel and look. I measure where I want this line to be at the breech and the muzzle and draw a line with a straight edge. I do this on both sides. The second line down represents the widest part of the stock. It is 1/3rd of the way down from the top of the fore stock. I mark this line on both sides of the stock. also.
At this point I have removed the barrel and already rasped off the excess wood on top of the fore stock. I'm now rounding off the top to the line that represents the widest part of the stock. I leave a slight flat on top, it's probably less than 1/32. I've never measured it, I just do it by eye. Do this all the way down both sides of the stock and put the barrel back in. Use caution during this work as the fore stock is very fragile without the barrel attached to it.
Here I'm shaping the rest of the fore stock. I do this in flat steps, blending the flats together at the end.
This is how it ought to look when your done. A nice barrel shaped conture.
The lower fore stock is done the same way, a series of flats that you eventually blend to round.
It ought to look something like this when your done.
You'll end up with a few areas like this to blend in.
I use a 7/16" rat tail file to shape the lock area.
The ram rod entry area ought look like this when done. I mainly use the rat tail file and a 1/2 round cabinet rasp to form this area.
It ought to look about like this when done.
The muzzle end of the stock should look like this. I form this with the cabinet rasp.